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Jeans are timeless - and a hole doesn’t have to end their journey. Sashiko stitching is a traditional Japanese mending technique that transforms holes into beautiful, decorative statements. Here's how to turn damaged jeans into a canvas of character using two contrasting threads.
What You'll Need
- Pins
- Thread (two different colours)
- A needle
- Scissors
- Fabric chalk
- Ruler
- Square of fabric
Step 1: Marking Your Repair Area
Trim any excess thread around the hole. Cut your patch of fabric to size (you want it to be at least 2 cm wider than the hole). Place the patch behind the hole and secure it with pins to hold everything in place. Take your ruler and tailor’s chalk to draw a neat grid of squares—about 1 cm each—centered over the hole. Extend at least 2 cm beyond the damaged area so your stitching has enough fabric to anchor into, creating a decorative frame.
Step 2: Anchoring Your First Thread
Thread your needle with your first chosen colour, leaving a tail and tying a small knot at the end. A good length for a piece of thread is generally from your elbow to your fingertips, roughly 36-39 inches. This length allows for comfortable stitching without excessive thread tangling or waste. You can adjust this length depending on your preference and the specific pattern you're working on.
Starting from the inside of the fabric just outside your chalked grid, gently push the needle with the thread through and pull it taught. This anchored thread will be the foundation for your first run of stitches across the patch area.
Step 3: Creating Horizontal Lines
Using the chalk grid as your guide, begin stitching 1 cm running stitches horizontally across the hole. Each stitch should be even and follow the chalk lines, creating tidy rows that reinforce the denim. Before starting a new row of stitches, leave a 2 cm gap. When you’ve finished, knot the thread on the inside and trim the excess.
Step 4: Adding Colour Contrast
Re-thread your needle with the second colour and repeat a similar process. This time, place your horizontal running stitches about 1 cm inside the first set, forming a smaller square design. This introduces a playful contrast and creates a border of stitching. Again, knot securely on the inside and trim any loose ends. Now that you’ve got your basic pattern down, you can remove your pins.
Step 5: Stitching the Vertical Crosses
Return to the first coloured thread and use it to stitch vertical running lines across your initial horizontal rows, forming a classic cross-hatch pattern. Once complete, knot the thread inside, trim the tail, then re-thread with your second colour. Stitch vertically across the second block of horizontal rows, completing the patchwork design and reinforcing the denim from multiple angles.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
Turn your jeans inside out and gently trim any stray threads, taking care not to cut into your stitching. Return your jeans right-side-out and admire your handiwork: a vibrant, signature repair that is both functional and stylish. This visible mending not only strengthens the fabric but honours its history—turning a hole into a statement.
You’re Done!
Give yourself a pat on the back—you’ve revived your jeans with mindful, sustainable practice. Wearing a sashiko-mended garment shows you care about quality, longevity, and craftsmanship.
Why It Works
Sashiko stitching protects your jeans from further damage while showcasing your creativity. By layering two colours and creating a geometric pattern, you’ve turned a flaw into a feature. You’re repairing, upcycling, and personalising all at once - making the garment more durable and more you.
Want to learn more visually? Check out our Sashiko tutorial on YouTube.
Ready-made, lovingly repaired pieces are also available on our site.